Kayaking Georgia’s Oconee and Altamaha rivers — a scenic setting where time passes slowly

“I’m prepared now to use the wonderful word confluence, which of itself exists as a reality and a symbol in one. It is the only kind of symbol that for me as a writer had any weight, testifying to the pattern, one of the chief patterns, of human experience. Of course the greatest confluence of all is that which makes up the human memory — the individual human memory.”–Eudora Welty

Does a river have a memory?

If it does, I am certain it will remember the epochs of the earth, the migrations of the animals, and the rising generations of humankind. There are rivers in Georgia that would do the same, and theirs would be a memory of Native American canoes, colonial traders, cotton-laden flatboats and the aluminum hulls of anglers searching for catfish. Where they join in a confluence of muddy water is a place for making new memories of the beauty of the meeting of land, sky and water.

These three Georgia rivers are the Oconee, Ocmulgee and the Altamaha.

There is a place where the Oconee and the Ocmulgee meet in central Georgia, and at this confluence is a muddy swirl of currents and colors. From this union is born the mighty Altamaha, which flows some 137 miles to empty into the Atlantic at the foot of the town of Darien and between the sea islands of Sapelo and St. Simons.

The Ocmulgee rises in northeast Georgia and flows 255 miles, passing the city of Macon. The Oconee is a 220-mile river that curls lazily between golden sandbars and passes through rich farmland. All three are a perfect destination for boating, fishing and enjoying the outdoors.

Recently, a group of friends and I put in at Bell’s Ferry Landing on the lower Oconee River near Uvalda, Georgia. The plan was to paddle down to where it joined the Ocmulgee and spend the rest of the day on the wide waters of the Altamaha. The Oconee is a beautiful and scenic river, where tall pines adorn high banks and purple wisteria climbs in fragrant banks on a trellis of water oak and willow.

We launched on a bright spring morning, with an unfortunate wind that was blowing at nearly 15 mph. Our concern turned to joy when we realized that this breeze (with gusts that day up to 25-30 mph) would be at our backs. With hot coffee for the morning chill and rising spirits, we kept our kayaks pointed downstream to ride the breeze downriver to explore the 13 miles to our takeout at Gray’s Landing.

After a few miles, the Oconee River joined the Ocmulgee, where its mocha-brown waters, touched by red hill farmland runoff, met the black waters of the swampy Ocmulgee. Here, colors swirled in a blender of currents and wind-blown chop — a margarita mix of the moods of water that tossed our boats a little as we drifted past.

The Altamaha opened to a wide expanse with a shoreline of alternating bluffs and deep green swamp, fringed with willow. We passed beneath the rust and stone of an abandoned railroad trestle and then stopped for lunch at Towns Bluff Park. Towns Bluff is county-maintained park for recreation and camping with a heritage and nature center focusing on the region’s natural and historic value.

From Towns Bluff we returned to the Altamaha, where the river became more remote and scenic. Sandy banks showed erosion from spring floods and winter storms, wide sandbars invited stops at each bend and wildlife began to show. The strong breeze kept songbirds in the trees but swarms of migratory tree swallows darted and dove above the river and all about us, feasting on small insects in an aerobatic display.

Extremely high bluffs and precariously-perched river homes marked the return to civilization as we neared Gray’s Landing for our take-out. Gray’s Landing, located near Uvalda, is a and well-maintained boat landing and park. Tired, but happy, we found dinner at Benton Lee’s Steakhouse — a colorful, local riverfront restaurant that featured good-humored people and good food for hungry boaters. The walls and tables were adorned with local and Hollywood celebrities, some of whom had visited Benton Lee’s in the past. Photos of Donna Douglas, TV’s Elly May Clampett from the show “The Beverly Hillbillies,” were a feature at our table. The staff was friendly, the food was good, and we left happy.

Benton Lee’s Steakhouse and both river landings that provided access to the Oconee and the Altamaha are located right at two hours from the Beaufort area and are easily reached over scenic highways and backroads. Whether you wish to spend a day on the water, visit Town’s Bluff Park or just enjoy a good steak dinner and some riverfront dining, then this destination will not disappoint.

Getting there

Bell’s Ferry Landing, Town’s Bluff Park, Gray’s Landing and Benton Lee’s Steakhouse are all located about two hours from the Beaufort area near the town of Uvalda in Toombs County Georgia. To get there, take Highway 17 or Interstate 95 south to I-16 west 22 miles to Exit 143 and US-280W. Take US-280 for 42 miles through Clayton to Reidsville and take a left onto Georgia 56, Shepherd’s Bridge Road. At 18 miles turn left onto Hitchcock Road and go 2 miles to the stop sign at Old River Road. From here you can cross Old River Road onto Gray’s Landing Road and go 1.5 miles to Benton Lee’s Steakhouse and Gray’s Landing.

Benton Lee’s is open Wednesday through Friday from 5-9 p.m. and Saturdays from 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Call (912) 594-6931 for more info.

Back on Old River Road, you can take Old River Road for 6 miles to cross U.S. 221 to Bell’s Ferry Road and take a right onto Dead River Road for Bell’s Ferry Landing. Or, you can turn left onto U.S. 221 to cross the river and turn left onto Riverwood Trail for Town’s Bluff Park and Heritage Center.

Town’s Bluff Park is located at 45 Riverwood Trail, Hazlehurst, Georgia. For more info, go to townsbluffpark.com, email info@townsbluffpark.com or call (912) 379-9303).

This story was originally published April 20, 2022 at 9:54 AM.