Paddle to the Death? Lowcountry history, beauty and challenges on Cuckolds Creek

Over the years we came to refer to the kayaking trip as “The Paddle to the Death.” In retrospect it was hard to imagine that a beautiful, idyllic stretch of Lowcountry waterway would evoke such a reaction among friends discussing a shared memory, but the feeling was real. The waterway I am referring to is the curiously named Cuckolds Creek and a stretch of the Combahee River. In many ways this passage is no different from any other river or creek in the region, but on the day my friends and I paddled it nearly 15 years ago, we were woefully unprepared for conditions on the water.

That day, six friends and I departed the boat ramp on Cuckold’s Creek for a 6-mile paddle, planning to take out at “Steel Bridge” — now called “Harriet Tubman Bridge” — where the Coastal Highway crosses the Combahee River and the wide expanse of former rice field marsh. Most of the group was relatively new to paddling in the Lowcountry, and we misjudged several factors.

We misjudged the tide, little realizing the lunar and oceanic pull of the current. Some members were in whitewater boats not truly suited for long, stable paddling trips. At least two other friends were on crash diets and had not consumed enough fuel for a challenging kayak trip.

Instead of an enjoyable paddle that rolled with the tide and allowed us to leisurely take in the astoundingly beautiful scenery of a historic natural area, we ended up dragging ourselves to the landing, groaning and complaining, vowing never to speak of —much less paddle — this stretch of water again.

Where is this watery path of misery that you must avoid? You have doubtless noticed the brown sign on U.S. 17 between Beaufort and Charleston pointing out the location of a boat landing with the name “Cuckold’s Creek.” This takes you to the start of a 6-mile stretch of pristine Lowcountry creek that is bordered on all sides by historic plantation property, seemingly endless marsh and myriad birds, fish and alligators — and a beautiful journey on the water if you are prepared!

The name, the history, the scenery

You may ask, what is with that name? “Cuckolds Creek” bespeaks of a curious, if not embarrassing origin. But a search of old records and online references to place names reveals…nothing. Island Packet Columnist Liz Farrell tackled this question a few years ago and found that instead of a salacious backstory of love and betrayal, the name may simply be a corruption or misspelling of another name: “Curcule Creek.” In the end, who knows? Like many things in the Lowcountry, this simple place has developed a legend, and this becomes part of the joy of life here.

When you explore Cuckolds Creek, you will experience a trip through yesteryear. From the launch at the landing near the rural community of White Hall, you are deep in the heart of former rice plantations. Red-winged blackbirds burst from the marsh, fish jump, and alligators watch you from the ruler-straight canals of former rice fields. As you descend the creek and its lazy bends, you will see “trunk gates,” where flooded land still provides a haven for waterfowl, and occasional piles of smooth, round ballast stones mark where the soft muddy banks were strengthened for schooners and flatboats. After several hours, you enter the wide current of the Combahee River where, close by the mouth of the creek, a pile of bricks and a rusted gear wheel reveal a former rice mill now in ruins — a symbol of a war for freedom from slavery and the lost cause of the plantation South.

A long bend in the Combahee River marks your final stretch, and you will notice the sound of cars passing on U.S. 17 in the distance, across a vast, channeled field of marsh. Passages through this march can allow a very scenic alternate route to the take out, and it’s worth trying if conditions are right — meaning if the abundant alligators can be avoided.

I recently returned to undertake the “Paddle to the Death” again with my group of friends. By timing the tide right and being well prepared, we had a very enjoyable kayak trip. During the last mile on the Combahee, a massive thunderstorm erupted in a menacing wall of cloud and rain across the marsh, turning the river into a froth of raindrops and blasts of warm summer wind. The Lowcountry had decided to play a trick on us for old times’ sake and remind us of the power of the beautiful natural world around us that we love so much — and can too often take for granted.

Getting there

Cuckolds Creek Landing is on Cuckold Creek Road, Green Pond, S.C. It is well maintained with a concrete ramp and small parking area. Harriet Tubman Bridge/Steel Bridge Landing is located on U.S. 17 where the Coastal Highway crosses the Combahee River between Beaufort and Colleton counties. This large landing has two ramps and a dock, as well as temporary restroom facilities. Both landings are open year round, dawn to dusk.

If you wish to paddle Cuckolds Creek along the route I have described, proper planning requires an understanding of tide and weather conditions. This can include a descent of the creek on the outgoing tide or a launch at Harriet Tubman Bridge for an ascent of the creek on an incoming tide. Either passage will reveal beautiful scenery and fascinating history and provide an unforgettable experience on the water — I hope in a good way!