Looking to get away from the 'every day?' This Lowcountry river can take you there
Across the deep swamp, the rumble of steel on steel speaks of a train approaching.
A lonely but determined whistle sounds among the thick-based, moss-covered trees and songbirds take flight among their branches. Wood groans and steam hisses as a metal monster slips into view and thunders across the old trestle. Faces of passengers in the windows gaze out across the brief ribbon of black water river or stay fixed on newspapers as the train forges ahead to cities and farmlands in the great American heartland.
A steam locomotive with its passenger express train once crossed the Edisto River as it made its way across the Lowcountry during the golden age of rail travel. Now this trestle is silent as its wooden ties slowly melt into the swamp and its steel framing rusts to a deep hue of memory.
Shifts in time and need have moved the once busy rail line to other passages and now the trestle is home to birds, frogs and fish living among its ancient piers. Though no train crosses now, there is plenty of traffic beneath as the Edisto River remains a magnet for Lowcountry adventure of all kinds from kayaking and canoes to fishermen and families enjoying its welcoming reaches in john boats.
This region of the Edisto River is the confluence — where the narrow, winding north and south forks of the river join near Branchville and widen to provide a deeper stream as it makes its way to the sea.
A region of deep swamps and quiet lakes, of tall trees and golden sandbars, this section of the Edisto River has been witness to history and now serves as a valuable resource for the preservation and enjoyment of nature and its bounty. When you explore the confluence section of the Edisto River, you will discover an easy, 10-mile paddle or boat ride that will carry you first through narrow and winding stretches of river and then to wider easier paths.
One of the best places to enter the river is KilKare Landing near Branchville. Kilkare is the last public landing on the north fork of the Edisto River and provides a good entry for non-trailer boats. A good take-out is the aptly named “Zig Zag” landing on the main stem between state highways 78 and 21. You will discover that there are accessible swamps and oxbows with deep green reaches of forest where songbirds such as the elusive Prothonotary warbler can be spotted as an electric yellow flash of color and insistent call for attention.
As you exit the north fork and join the south fork for the main river, you will be struck by the quiet beauty of the place and a sense of a welcoming river ahead. The old trestle will pass overhead about a mile or so below and makes a great place to stop for lunch or rest.
Farther down, as you explore the many gentle bends of river and slide past the few but well-kept river houses, you will come upon a handmade sign for “ZigZag” Landing. Don’t miss it as it is accessed by entering a shaded oxbow lake and then another to bring you to your journey’s end.
Recently I paddled this confluence stretch of the Edisto River and found it to be one of the most enjoyable trips I've had in my years of Lowcountry exploration. With a little planning and a day to spare, you, too, will appreciate the simple wonders this section of the Edisto River offers.
Getting There
KilKare and ZigZag Landings are both well-marked and easy to access.
KilKare landing is located off Kil Kare Landing Rd just outside of Branchville (it may show Cope SC on some maps) and despite a 3.5 mile dirt road, is easily accessible in all seasons.
Zig Zag Landing is located off Zig Zag Landing Rd. on the south bank of the main stem also in Branchville and between where state highways 78 and 21 cross the river. Both landings are no more than an hour and 40 minutes from Bluffton and easily traveled to.
To get to KilKare Landing from Bluffton, take S.C. 21 north to Branchville and turn left on Edward Street. At half a mile, turn right onto Hudson Road. At 3.5 miles, turn sharp left onto KilKare Way and travel a mile on the dirt road. The landing is on your left. The concrete ramp at KilKare is in disrepair but there is easy access for “drop-ins.” It is best to take two cars or arrange a shuttle for the take out at Zig Zag landing.
To get to Zig Zag landing, take S.C. Hwy 21 to Whetstone Crossroads and turn left on SC 61. At 4.8 miles, turn right onto Farrell’s Road and then a slight right onto SR S-5-434.
The excellent ramp and paved parking area are one mile at the end. This is good trip for kayakers of all skill levels.
It is helpful to have a GPS or even to join a group.
For more information about river conditions and the Edisto River, visit Friends of the Edisto at www.edistofriends.org/ or SCDNR at www2.dnr.sc.gov/ManagedLands/boatramp/boatrampsearch
This story was originally published April 25, 2018 at 12:40 PM with the headline "Looking to get away from the 'every day?' This Lowcountry river can take you there."