Take a road trip to these historic Lowcountry churches
The religious landscape of the South Carolina Lowcountry has changed over the centuries, much as the shifting dunes of its beaches or the winding creeks of its tidal marshes.
The region has been home to many faiths and backgrounds, and this is reflected in many ways — from the earliest Native American archaeological sites to the crowning spires of the city of Charleston.
In our towns, communities and along our scenic roadways an array of churches, chapels, synagogues, praise houses and more can be found.
As tides of immigration swept in and out of the Lowcountry, the settlers brought their faith with them, and this is even seen today as the robust growth of new homes and residents bring new denominations and faith identities with them.
Indeed, the historic churches and religious sites of the Lowcountry can bring a glimpse of grand architecture and shades of a colonial past that can prove to be an excellent attraction for visitors and destinations all their own for those interested in venturing out into the countryside to experience a scene from the past and distant memory of when the Old World met the New.
Anyone up for a road trip? Whether you are inclined for an easy drive or a daytrip along the coast, there are several historic church locations that you will find interesting. Each can provide a picture of life in colonial times or even provide a venue to enjoy a modern wedding or service. Photographers and artists enjoy visiting these locations for the aesthetic value, while others can enjoy the architectural significance of each.
Below are three area churches among many that have proven either to be popular destinations or best-kept secrets for visitors, but anyone can agree that a trip to see one or all of them is filled with fascination and beauty.
Sheldon Church Ruins
Perhaps the most recognizable to Lowcountry residents or visitors are the ruins of the old Sheldon Church. Built in 1745, this old church served the colonial Lowcountry in grand style. Parish church to planters and statesmen, it was a symbol of prosperity … and revolution. British troops burned the church in 1779 during the Revolutionary War as a symbol of rebellion.
The church was rebuilt and rumored to have been burned again by Federal troops under William T. Sherman in his infamous “March to the Sea” as a stab at the heart of secession.
Sheldon Church was never rebuilt, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t lovingly maintained. Its graceful arches and bare columns still serve during annual worship services, and it is a magnet for outdoor weddings and photography.
“The WPA Guide to South Carolina,” published in 1941, describes the Sheldon Church ruins as “an eerie place in moonlight, the surrounding groves draped in Spanish Moss, it is scarcely less ghostly in the sun, when lizards scurry off among the graves.” Whether you visit on a bright morning or at the fade of evening light, the beauty of the place is unforgettable.
Pon Pon Chapel
A brick chapel-of-ease was built along the busy road to Parkers Ferry on the Edisto River in 1820 after a series of wooden and other structures on the site since the early 1700s.
With a congregation that had been impacted by war and other colonial hardships, it was finally dispersed when a forest fire destroyed the building. Found on a quiet corner of a sandy road off the beaten path, only two walls and a cistern remain overlooking a field of wildflowers and headstones. This is an easy stop just outside Jacksonboro along U.S. 17 between Bluffton and Charleston and a wonderful place to view nature as well as history.
St. James Santee Episcopal Church, Wambaw
The apex of our road trip takes us a little over two hours from Bluffton to the old parish church of St. James Santee. This brick-columned church has been the faith home to this region since French Huguenots settled along the Santee River in the early 18th century.
The building was built along the old Georgetown road, and it has survived war, hurricanes and other natural disasters only to be marooned by the tides of progress. Surrounded entirely by National Forest, a visit to St James Santee near McLellanville is both a journey into the wilderness and a path to discovery.
Services are still held at the church annually, and it is well maintained by a faithful congregation of locals. The church is a fine example of Georgian architecture and Lowcountry style that offers a window into the past.
The arrow-straight sandy road that fronts the church was once a race track for young horsemen, and the nearby Hampton Plantation is the ancestral seat of the Rutledge family, which included a signer of the Declaration of Independence and a poet laureate of South Carolina. The poet, Archibald Rutledge, called the old church, “a shrine in the wilderness, flanked on three sides by the immense loneliness of the pine forest.”
These sites may seem lonely and though progress and time have passed them by, they are still worth a visit as a venture into history, architectural beauty or just to enjoy the great outdoors!
Bluffton resident Matt Richardson enjoys taking day trips with his family and exploring the Lowcountry. To see more pictures from his adventures, go to www.Flickr.com and search on the username “greenkayak73.” He can be reached at greenkayak73@gmail.com.
Getting there
These three historic sites and buildings are easily accessible for visitors of all ages and abilities. However, there may be some dirt road driving, and there are no facilities at any of the locations.
- Sheldon Church Ruins: An easy ride from Bluffton, up S.C. 462 to I-95 or U.S. 21 from Beaufort. In Gardens Corner, where U.S. 17 meets U.S. 21, take Old Sheldon Church Road for 1.6 miles. The church ruins and parking are on the right side. Visiting hours are from dawn to dusk. Please note that the ruins are located on private property and are maintained by the Parish Church of St. Helena. You can reach them at 843-522-1712 for more information or to inquire about services.
- Pon Pon Chapel of Ease: Located near U.S. 17 in Jacksonboro, these ruins are fairly easy to find. Take U.S. 17 to Jacksonboro and take a left onto S.C. 64W at the light. At 2.2 miles, take a right onto Jacksonboro Road and then a right onto Parkers Ferry Road The church ruins are right on the corner. It is best to visit during daylight hours.
- St. James Santee Episcopal Church: This is the farthest from Bluffton. Take U.S. 17 through Charleston toward Georgetown. Continue past McLellanville to Rutledge Road. Take a left onto Rutledge Road and a left at 1.5 miles onto Old Georgetown Road. The church is on the right at about 4 miles. The road is sandy and can be impacted by the weather. Most any vehicle is fine but be aware of conditions. The church may or may not be open. For more information on the church, services or other info, you may contact the parish church in McLellanville at 843-887-4386.
This story was originally published August 30, 2017 at 1:20 PM with the headline "Take a road trip to these historic Lowcountry churches."