Penny Creek to Willtown Bluff: Paddling the Lowcountry’s beautiful lower Edisto River

(Editor’s note: We know that public boat landings are temporarily closed in South Carolina due to the COVID-19 coronavirus pandemic, but we share this story as a ray of hope for brighter days ahead.)

One of the benefits of an adventure on the waterways of the Lowcountry is the opportunity to experience nature and history together.

Centuries of human settlement from the days of Native American hunters to the Colonial Period and Revolution to the vast sweep of plantations to Civil War and modern conservation make each mile of passage on a river or creek a study in the land and the lives of the people it has touched.

Small, unassuming Penny Creek near Adams Run and the tidal flow of the Edisto River rolling through ancient rice fields and past plantation ruins is one such waterway where a visitor can experience the full force of the natural and historic treasures of the Lowcountry — and all less than an hour from the Beaufort area.

A kayak trip from Penny Creek near Adams Run to the Edisto and Willtown Bluff provides a relatively easy seven-mile paddle that will take you through old rice fields and into the broad reach of the river while providing glimpses of plantation ruins and the abundant wildlife of the Lowcountry coast.

Penny Creek Landing is a public launching point in Charleston County and is easy to find.

The creek at the landing is relatively narrow and at mid- to low tide the water can be too shallow for power boats — but perfect for kayaks and paddleboards. The best time to put in is at high tide to ensure good navigation and a nice current to carry you to the Edisto River.

Along Penny Creek you will wind a passage that begins with hardwood, pine and bottomland forest where springtime branches are covered in red maple buds, climbing yellow jasmine and the calls of migratory songbirds.

As you descend the creek the land will begin to open up to reveal the wide spaces of former rice fields, many now managed as waterfowl habitats complete with hand-built “trunk gates” that can open and close with the tide to control water levels in the fields.

Where slaves once toiled to build an empire for the wealthy, ducks and egrets now shelter in these havens. The birds burst from the water in a storm of wings at an approaching kayaker, their calls sounding above the rustling of the tall grass in the coastal breeze.

At two-and-a-half miles, Penny Creek empties into a wide bend of the Lower Edisto River.

This most Lowcountry of streams has its origin above Orangeburg and for most of its track forms a tree-shaded wonderland of blackwater and swamp.

As the Edisto approaches the sea it passes the sites of several colonial plantations before reaching the historic landing of Willtown Bluff. The nearly four miles of this stretch are greatly affected by the tides and a strong breeze can impact your journey along this open area.

As you are carried along with the current you will notice tall chimneys at certain intervals. These are the remains of rice mills, the small factories built on the rice plantations to process the golden product before shipping.

After centuries of change and the fires of war, only ruins remain but prove fascinating landmarks above the marsh. Along this stretch are many old canals and waterways that can easily be explored as you make your passage.

In these quiet corners you will see much wildlife. As you round the final bend in the river you will see your destination of Willtown Bluff. This well-used public landing is very popular year round and excellent for accessing the Lowcountry.

The old settlement of Willtown was laid out on the bluff 25 feet above the river in the early 1700s as one of the first settlements outside of colonial Charleston. The high bluff created a natural defensive area and the town was laid out to accommodate over 80 houses. A church, magistrates court and other public buildings once stood but today all that remains are several historic homes including Willtown Bluff Plantation. Built in 1820, this home is easily seen from the landing and is privately owned today.

Recently, a group of friends and I paddled from Penny Creek to Willtown Bluff. Along the way we enjoyed a favorable tide and breeze as we enjoyed the warmth of a Lowcountry sunshine ushering in the first joys of spring.

A bald eagle perched high above the river, egrets waded in the shallows, and the woods were bright with spring buds.

With proper planning and good conditions, the stretch from Penny Creek to Willtown Bluff on the Edisto River makes for an easy, enjoyable day on one of the most scenic of Lowcountry rivers.

Getting there

Penny Creek Landing is located on the eastern bank of the Edisto River near Adams Run and is about an hour’s drive from the Beaufort area. Take U.S. 17 to Jacksonboro. Cross the Edisto and turn right onto Parker’s Ferry Road (S-10-38). At one mile, turn right onto Penny Creek Road. The landing is less than a mile, at the end of the road.

Willtown Bluff is located 5 miles further down Parkers Ferry Road, where the pavement ends. You will see signs for Willtown Bluff and the boat landing.

For a paddling trip on Penny Creek and the lower Edisto, you will want to have two vehicles to allow a one-way trip. Take plenty of water and bug repellent as per the season and mind the tide and weather conditions.

For more information on this waterway and paddling trail, check out https://www.sctrails.net/trails/trail/penny-creek-to-willtown-bluff