Go back in time: Hidden crossroads and country stores worth a visit in SC Lowcountry
“When you walk up those steps and go through that door, you will be passing through 250 years of history.”
William Drawdy, owner of Salt Creek Antiques, speaks with affection and maybe even a little awe as he describes the old Lenoir Store, the place where his business has found a home.
This wood frame building is the centerpiece of the crossroads hamlet of Horatio, where it seems to be a time capsule of history and small town life.
It is a place of comfort and happiness in a fast-changing world, but to many others it’s still the corner store.
One of the oldest operating businesses in the state, if not the nation, the Lenoir Store has been in business for over 200 years. It functions as a general store, a gathering place and, since 1900, the local U.S. Post Office.
For more than 200 years, the Lenoir family has run an establishment at this location, where an old ferry road approaches the King’s Highway in the High Hills of the Santee.
Today, visitors can stop and experience small town life as they grab a snack and good conversation while they shop for antiques and locally-made gifts.
The Lenoir Store is a destination for anyone wishing to experience a unique small-town offering, and the journey to get there is half the enjoyment.
S.C. Hwy. 261 traces its way through the Lowcountry from the tidal creeks of Georgetown along Lake Marion and the Wateree River through the High Hills of the Santee to Camden. This ancient Native American trading path was known as the “Kings Highway” since before the Revolution and has served as a vital artery of travel in and out of the Lowcountry for centuries.
Now largely bypassed by four-lane highways and the roaring interstate, this backroad highway passes through some of the oldest and most interesting communities in the Lowcountry.
A fascinating road trip along S.C. 261 will take you from Interstate 95 through the wildwoods of the Manchester State Forest and allow several informative stops.
Batten’s of Wedgefield: One of your first stops will be the small community of Wedgefield and Batten’s general store. Boasting a menu with gator tail and a large, toothy shark hanging from the ceiling, Batten’s will give you something to talk about.
With an early enough start you will enjoy a hot Southern breakfast surrounded by antique outboards, NASCAR memorabilia and taxidermy-trophies of bobcat and wild boar.
After a good meal and good conversation, you can shop for the day’s supplies before hitting the lake, woods or open road.
Stateburg: After breakfast or a stop to experience Batten’s you will drive five miles north along the King’s Highway to the historic crossroads community of Stateburg.
Organized in the 1780’s, it was eyed as a new state capital until Columbia was chosen instead. Ideally situated atop ice-age sandy bluffs, the airy heights of Stateburg became a home to plantation gentry with such notable residents and visitors as Gen. Thomas Sumter, Gov. Steven Decatur Miller and famed Civil War diarist Mary Boykin Chesnut.
You can stop at the beautiful, hilltop Church of the Holy Cross. This Anglican church has served as a spiritual hub of the community since 1850 and is an example of unique pise de terre (rammed earth) construction.
Ambassador Joel Poinsett is buried in the churchyard and is perhaps best known for the colorful, decorative plant he introduced to American culture: the “poinsettia.”
Old Lenoir Store: After exploring Stateburg, you can complete your day trip in nearby Horatio and the Old Lenoir Store. Tradition holds that it has served the Lowcountry and the community since the mid-1700’s and is mentioned by name on Robert Mills’ 1820 Atlas.
Today, it welcomes visitors from all over the country — or from just down the road. For years, Mrs. Carrie Lenoir was proprietress until her passing, and now her daughter Beverly carries on the family tradition.
You can stop by for an RC Cola and Moon Pie and browse the unique gifts of Salt Creek Antiques. There is truly something for everyone here and you will find yourself passing the time with ease, just like a local.
Recently, I journeyed along the King’s Highway and visited these sites. As I completed my day at the Old Lenoir Store and prepared to head home I was struck by how the Lenoir Store is an oasis of community connection and conversation in an age of internet shopping and freeway travel.
Take an easy journey along this most Carolina of back roads and you too will experience a glimpse into history and meet some interesting people along the way.
Getting there
Horatio and the Lenoir Store are two hours and 20 minutes from Beaufort County and can be reached in an easy drive. Take I-95 north across the lake to exit 102 for U.S. Hwy. 15. Take U.S. 15 for 4 miles to a left on Liberty Hill Road. Take a left onto Garvey Road and then Governor Richardson Road and you will merge left onto S.C. 261 after a few miles.
You will drive through the scenic Manchester State Forest and at 8 miles will reach the community of Wedgefield and Batten’s store. For hours and info on Batten’s, call (803) 494-8925. It is open Thursday through Tuesday year-round.
Five miles further is the historic community of Stateburg. For information on the Church of the Holy Cross, call (803) 305-8780. The historic homes of Stateburg are private and not open to the public but a stroll through the cemetery is a walk through South Carolina History.
Five miles further along the King’s Highway, take a left onto Horatio-Haygood Road and visit the Old Lenoir Store and Salt Creek Antiques. The store is usually open every day during business hours and closed on Sunday. For best times and information, call (803) 459-5900 or visit https://saltcreekantiques.com.
This story was originally published February 28, 2020 at 10:19 AM.