Field of memory: Lowcountry’s Rivers Bridge State Historic Site mixes history, nature

“(W)hen I learned that Sherman’s army was marching through the Salkehatchie swamps, making its own roads at the rate of a dozen miles a day or more, and bringing its artillery and wagons with it, I made up my mind that there had been no such army in existence since the days of Julius Caesar.”

The army Confederate General Joseph E. Johnston was referring to was made up largely of farm boys from the American Midwest, and it had just completed an incredible “March to the Sea.”

In February 1865, the Union Army was on a path of liberation and destruction across the South and after marching through Georgia and capturing the city of Savannah, it was on the move once again to “make South Carolina howl” as repayment for the attack on Fort Sumter, secession and four long years of civil war.

Troops from Wisconsin, Illinois, Indiana and Ohio pursued retreating Confederates into South Carolina and in the deep winter of the New Year had discovered the swamps and braided channels of the black rivers of the Lowcountry in their path.

On the other side of the Salkehatchie River, rebels in gray dug in, confident that the Northern army would be foiled by the very landscape of the Lowcountry. The veteran Northern soldiers, however, waded into the deep river bottoms, at times breaking sheet ice that stretched beneath tall cypress, and found themselves facing entrenched defenders with cannon and guns ready — and the Battle of Rivers Bridge had begun.

Located a little over an hour away from Beaufort County, Rivers Bridge State Historic Site preserves the location of this battle and provides visitors with an experience in the outdoors that brings history and nature together.

This 390-acre site contains hiking trails, an interpretive center, picnic and group areas along with cemeteries and monuments honoring those who died in the battle and veterans of other American wars.

Rivers Bridge State Historic Site is a destination for those who love history and want to walk the hallowed ground of a historic battlefield and those who appreciate the offerings of a walk in nature and a day spent in the beauty of the Lowcountry outdoors.

When you visit Rivers Bridge State Historic Site you will experience a well-preserved battlefield and understand the beauty of the land the defenders sought to protect, and the extreme challenge that was overcome by valor and determination of those seeking to restore the Union and loose the bonds of slavery.

When you arrive at Rivers Bridge State Historic Site you will be able to visit a small cemetery and monument park that remembers the fallen, and tour the well-presented historic interpretive center. Then, armed with information on the battle and the participants, you can hike the one-mile path or drive to the battlefield and begin your tour.

Interactive displays and information takes you on a self-guided tour along the old Orangeburg Road to the quiet waters at the edge of the vast Salkehatchie River swamp. As songbirds sing in trees overhead and the quiet waters whisper between cypress knees, you will struggle to imagine that such a beautiful place was once filled with the smoke of cannon and the yells of men at war.

The scars of this war will be seen farther along the path as an extensive earthwork trench has been preserved. Here, Confederates who were veterans mixed with a force of home guard and reserve troops who had spent the war in the forts and garrison duty of Savannah, now found themselves under determined attack by men in blue who had seemingly done the impossible to cross the swamp and appear on their flank in a surprise move that won the battle and opened South Carolina to a vengeful and victorious Union Army.

Recently, I spent the day at Rivers Bridge State Historic Site and walked the trails with my dog. Rivers Bridge State Historic Site is one of several South Carolina parks that encourages our four-legged family members to visit, and it made for a day of contemplation and companionship for me, and a romp in the woods for my dog. As she scented squirrels and was surprised by white-tailed deer bounding through the brush, I appreciated the beauty of the land and the sacrifice of those who gave all to protect and preserve the freedoms we enjoy today.

Getting there

Rivers Bridge State Historic Site is located an hour and 15 minutes from Beaufort County and is easily reached by a direct route. Take U.S. 21 north or U.S. 321 north to U.S. 601. Take S.C. 641 north and follow signs to Rivers Bridge State Historic Site.

The battlefield is located at 325 State Park Road, Ehrhardt, SC 29081.

Rivers Bridge State Historic Site is open 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily, and some holiday hours may apply.

This is a free site although donations are appreciated for the upkeep and preservation of the park. There are group shelters and picnic areas that can be reserved, and special events throughout the year.

This year marks the 155th anniversary of the battle. A reenactment of the battle will be held by a private organization on the last weekend in February, and it is open to the public.

For more information on visiting the park, events and the battle, visit https://southcarolinaparks.com/rivers-bridge; or call 803-267-3675.

This story was originally published January 3, 2020 at 5:30 AM.