How a Lowcountry river, island and shrimping community offer peace and abundance

Dark, nutrient-rich river water whispers through marsh grass and gurgles between pilings of an old bridge as the lazy Ashepoo River makes its way to its rendezvous with the sea. As it flows with the current born of deep ribbon-channeled swamps and ancient rice fields, it meets and is carried on by the ever-calling tide.

The “A” in the ACE Basin of rivers that give this precious region its name — the Ashepoo River — is a place of refuge, peace and abundance of wildlife that draw many visitors in search of adventures.

The lower Ashepoo provides many ways that visitors can experience its offerings. You can take a kayak trip or go fishing along the creeks and marshes, take a driving tour, enjoy birdwatching in the 5,385-acre managed land of Bear Island, charter a fishing trip or buy fresh local seafood in the tiny village of Bennett’s Point near where the river meets St. Helena Sound. All of this is just a little over an hour from Bluffton off U.S. 17 between Beaufort and Charleston.

Here is what you will experience when you go:

▪ Ashepoo River. This relatively short blackwater river rises out of the swamps near Walterboro and progresses to the sea through historic rice fields and farmland. It is greatly affected by the tide but can make for an excellent destination for boating or exploring from one of several boat ramps and access points.

Recently, a group of friends and I put in at “Brickyard landing,” a small, one-lane ramp where Bennett’s Point Road crosses the marshy river. A 2-mile paddle will take you to a place of historic significance: in 1864, a brief but fierce battle took place between Union gunboats and Fort Chapman, a Confederate battery located on shore. The duel resulted in the sinking of the USS Boston and a Confederate victory. Five Medals of Honor were awarded to Federal soldiers who gallantly rescued survivors. All were from the 34th Regiment made up of African-Americans.

Little, if anything, remains of the fort today other than a few mounds of earth on the bank, but it is one more destination where you can understand a fascinating part of history.

▪ Bear Island WMA is one of many carefully managed refuges that make up a portion of the ACE basin. Old rice fields and maritime forest combine to provide a haven for thousands of migratory birds and other wildlife. Alligators sun themselves, and fish jump in the freshwater ponds.

Bear Island is easily accessible from Feb. 1 to Oct. 1, when birders flock to experience the abundance of wildlife. You can drive along the old dikes and roads. There are several overlooks and platforms where you can get into nature. Fishing is reported to be excellent, and rare birds have been sighted in this oft-missed refuge.

▪ Bennett's Point Community. This established fishing community is perched where Mosquito Creek enters the Ashepoo at St. Helena Sound and is a fine destination for your day — or a longer stay.

Shrimp boats dock and fresh seafood can be bought at the establishment there. Fishing guides can be engaged for trips deep into the Lowcountry waters. This is a community with a purpose, and when you visit, you quickly find that the seafood and friendly smiles that make Bennett’s Point welcoming to all who wish to get to know a slice of Lowcountry life – old-school style, where the pace of the modern world seems to have slowed to the rhythm of the tide and what fish are biting that day.

Getting There:

All three destinations are about an hour and a half from Bluffton up U.S. 17 toward Charleston.

Fifteen miles from Gardens Corner and S.C. 21, take a right onto Bennett’s Point Road. This two-lane Lowcountry path will take you cross-country over the Ashepoo, through Bear Island WMA and finally to the docks at Bennett’s Point.

Paddling the Ashepoo can be tricky even for the intermediate to experienced kayaker who understands the tides and conditions of these estuarine waterways. If you wish to paddle to the area of Fort Chapman and the USS Boston, they lie about 2 miles downstream from Brickyard Landing. Any remains of the ship are long gone, and whatever might be seen of the fort has either washed away or is on private land. Do not trespass.

The beauty of the river is enough to make for a great paddle.

For more information, check out the book "The Battle of Capman’s Fort," written by Warren Ripley in 1978, and its detailed account of the battle.

Bear Island WMA is located 13 miles down Bennett’s Point Road at TiTi Road. A large sign marks the entrance. Check the website at 2.dnr.sc.gov/ManagedLands/ManagedLand/ManagedLand/56 for more information concerning times, wildlife viewing, hunting, fishing and conditions.

Bennett’s Point is located at the end of Bennett’s Point Road. The main place of business is B&B Seafood, a locally-owned seafood company where you can buy fresh catch or just shoot the breeze. There are few facilities in Bennett’s Point other than small sundries at B&B, so plan accordingly. For more information, call 843-844-2322.

This story was originally published March 28, 2018 at 3:00 PM with the headline "How a Lowcountry river, island and shrimping community offer peace and abundance."