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Lowcountry tastes - The Squat 'n' Gobble

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With its goofy name, its mascot -- a pneumatic, short-skirted, '60s-style cartoon waitress -- and occasionally politically incorrect décor, Bluffton's Squat 'n' Gobble Restaurant may have raised a few eyebrows in its day, but to most locals, it's an unconditionally beloved institution.

Maybe a little joie de vivre and a sense of humor should be a requirement to eat at The Squat.

Clean and efficiently-run, the place hardly merits the prim online sniffs it receives from outsiders wondering what must go on at a place with such an odd moniker.

Likewise, the periodic indignation on blogs and voicemails about its logo's barely-there skirt seems even sillier once you see the real servers, who are, incidentally, dressed in the restaurant's T-shirt and jeans, which may disappoint some and be a relief to others.

Squat 'n' Gobble's always-packed parking lot tells its story: It's where those in the know go for excellent eats.

As unpretentious a place as one can imagine, the patrons of this great little diner one Sunday morning were a seemingly endless rotation of characters: an assortment of locals discussing politics, families dressed in church finery, elderly regulars nursing their bottomless coffees and bleary-eyed 20-somethings consuming the time-honored greasy spoon hangover cure.

This joint is sort of the unique, eccentric Southern cousin of a faux-folksy chain like Cracker Barrel, with better food, prices and service. No more than five minutes could have passed between ordering breakfast and being served, though there was plenty of time later to people-watch and peruse the quirky and colorful décor.

And the values are better than in most fast food places. Apart from inexplicably pricey biscuits and gravy, the menu is full of bargains.

The Breakfast Special is two eggs (mine were perfectly cooked over easy), two strips of bacon, grits or home fries, and toast for just $3.99. I substituted a delicious biscuit for the toast for $1.39 and was glad I did.

I'd already had too much coffee that morning, so I didn't order any, but the Squat 'N' Gobble's coffee is supposed to be excellent and is just $1.35 with prompt refills.

The Squat 'N' Gobble'slunch and dinner menus feature dozens of American diner-style offerings, such as meatloaf, ribs, fried fish and liver and onions, as well as a variety of Greek selections such as spanakopita, gyros, mousaka, tiropita and baklava. The Big Fat Greek Cheeseburger is a half-pounder with spinach, feta, black olives, onions, tomatoes and lettuce for $6.99.

Greek and Greek Gyro pizzas also are offered along with more standard styles.

Incidentally, I was told by a server that "you can have lunch or dinner at 7 a.m. if you want."

How's that for quirky Southern hospitality?

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