Golf goes gourmet

When Chef Leonard Giarratano made the switch from cooking at restaurants to golf course clubhouses, he was happy to have more manageable hours. Gone were the late nights at restaurants -- a change that was more ideal for raising a family. But with it came a different set of challenges.

At the Long Cove Club, he has to keep 570 members happy. His staff comes up with about 200 different menus a year, the styles ranging from French to Italian to progressive continental cuisine.

"The members won't let you get stale," he said.

The club chef often is overlooked in the golfing world, but a new cookbook is drawing attention to the good food that's often overshadowed by the nation's premier courses. Yeoman House, a small Rhode Island publisher, released "Golf a la Carte," the first in a series focusing on club chefs. The first volume collects recipes from chefs in the Southeast, including several from Hilton Head and Daufuskie islands.

"We're trying to make the executive chefs at clubs at least as famous as the golf pro or architect," said Caleb Clarke, Yeoman House general manager. "We all felt that the fine dining experience is an important one and can be as memorable as that signature par 3."

Two of the local chefs featured in "Golf a la Carte" (originally called "Golf Digestables" until Golf Digest's lawyers intervened) shared the stories behind their recipes.

CHEF LEONARD GIARRATANO OF LONG COVE CLUB

Chive Roasted Spot-tail Bass

with White Truffle Risotto

An avid fisherman, Giarratano often is in a kayak on Broad Creek or the May River, pulling up flounder or red drum. His catch often is the inspiration for his latest dish. "My wife is (subjected to) many of my experiments," he said.

For the bass:

2 fillets spot-tail bass (also called redfish or red drum)

1⁄2 cup chives, chopped

1 teaspoon paprika

2 tablespoons ground Saltine crackers

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1⁄4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1⁄3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

For the risotto:

8 cups chicken broth, heated

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 yellow onion, finely chopped

1 large garlic clove, minced

2 cups Arborio rice

1⁄4 cup dry white wine

1⁄2 cup grated Asiago cheese

1 cup fresh arugula

3 tablespoons white truffle oil

1⁄2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Pre-heat oven to 400 degrees.

For the bass: Mix together the oil, paprika, salt, cayenne pepper and chives in a mixing bowl. Dip fillets in this mixture and place on a non-stick baking pan.

Set aside and start the risotto.

For the risotto: In a non-stick sauce pan over medium-high heat, warm the olive oil. Add the onions and cook until the onions become slightly soft, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more.

Add the rice and stir with a wooden spoon. Cook, while stirring, about three minutes. Add the wine and stir frequently until absorbed. Turn down to medium and begin adding broth one ladle-full at a time, stirring until it is almost completely absorbed before adding the next.

When half the broth is remaining, place the fish in the oven. The fish will need to cook about 12-15 minutes.

When the rice is tender, add the arugula and cook one more minute. Remove from heat and stir in the cheese, truffle oil, salt and pepper.

Serve fish atop the risotto.

CHEF FRANK COPELAND OF WEXFORD PLANTATION

Crab and Artichoke Bisque

Copeland and his staff at Wexford try to focus on what's fresh and what's available. "We try to use 100 percent sustainable seafood," he said. "We buy local as much as we can."

1/4 pound (1 stick) unsalted butter

1 pound fresh lump crab meat (picked and cleaned of shells)

2 stalks celery, small diced

1 medium onion, peeled and diced

1/4 teaspoon fresh thyme

1/2 cup flour

6 cups chicken stock or clam juice

2 cups heavy cream

2 small cans of artichokes, chopped

1 bunch green onions, chopped

Salt and pepper to taste

Melt butter in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add diced celery, onions, thyme and green onion and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Add flour, mixing with spoon, and continue to cook for an additional 2 to 3 minutes. Slowly whisk in the stock, add the chopped artichokes and cream. Bring the soup to a boil, stirring occasionally. Add the crab meat. Place the soup in a blender and pulse for about a minute. Season to taste.

Serve soup in warm bowls. Fresh corn bread is an excellent accompaniment.

Options: Add a cup of fresh or frozen corn kernels; substitute oysters for the crab meat.